Braised kimchi with pork belly
Kimchi jjim is what Korean households make in late winter, when the big batch of kimchi from the autumn kimjang has turned deeply sour and is too strong to eat raw. Whole quarters of the old kimchi are laid over a thick piece of pork belly and braised slowly until the cabbage is silky and the pork is meltingly soft. At the table you snip the pork with scissors and wrap a piece in a kimchi leaf with rice. The usual mistake is using fresh kimchi, which gives a flat, raw-tasting stew; it needs well-fermented, sour kimchi. Chef's tip: add a splash of the kimchi brine near the end if the sauce tastes sweet rather than tangy.
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