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Shipudim
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Shipudim

Grilled lamb and chicken skewers

A meal at a shipudiya, the skewer restaurants of the Hatikva quarter in Tel Aviv or the road to Rosh Pina, starts with a table of little salads and pita and goes on to skewers straight from the charcoal: minced lamb kebab with parsley and onion, chunks of chicken, and often livers or hearts for those who like them. This recipe makes the two favourites at home, lamb kebab and chicken, so you can grill a whole Friday lunch. Charred outside and juicy inside, they are eaten with hummus, tahini, chopped salad and pickles. Kebab mixtures that are too lean fall off the skewer, which is the usual problem; use lamb with some fat and squeeze it firmly around the stick. Chef's tip: chill the shaped kebabs for 30 minutes before grilling so they hold.

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RotkohlBraised red cabbage

Rotkohl, called Blaukraut in Bavaria and Austria, is the purple braised cabbage that sits next to dumplings and potatoes on German plates from autumn to Christmas. Red cabbage is cooked slowly with apple, onion, vinegar, bay and clove until meltingly soft, sweet-sour and glossy, a deep wine-red because the acid keeps the colour bright. Traditionally it's started in goose fat or lard; oil works perfectly and keeps it vegan. It's one of those dishes that is better the next day, so families make a big pot before Christmas. Chef's tip: add the vinegar at the start, not the end; without acid the cabbage turns an unappetising blue-grey as it cooks.

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Rou jia moSpiced pork flatbread sandwich

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RougailleSpiced tomato sauce with eggs

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Royyala iguruThick prawn curry

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40 minIndianFishGluten freeSpicy
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Roz bel labanRice pudding

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Rugra are small, round underground mushrooms that push up under sal trees in Jharkhand's forests after the first monsoon rains. Tribal villagers dig them out and sell them by the basket in Ranchi markets for a few short weeks, and families cook them into a dark, spicy curry with onion, tomato and mustard oil. They have a firm skin and a meaty, earthy bite. Outside Jharkhand, small whole button or chestnut mushrooms make a fine version. Chef's tip: rugra come caked in soil, so soak and scrub them several times, then halve one to check the inside is white; grey or black ones are past their best.

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