Mushrooms in white sauce
Ciulama is a white, velvety sauce stew from Moldova and Muntenia, and the mushroom version is cooked in autumn when wild mushrooms come down from the Carpathians, or any time with cultivated ones. Mushrooms are sautéed with onion, then simmered in a light roux of butter, flour and milk until thick and creamy, and finished with dill and garlic. It is served with a mound of hot mămăligă (cornmeal mash) and sometimes a spoon of sour cream. The usual mistake is adding the milk to a cold, raw roux, which leaves the sauce lumpy and floury. Chef's tip: let the mushrooms brown before the flour goes in; golden mushrooms give a much deeper flavour than pale, steamed ones.
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A royal festive sweet: rounds of crisp pastry wrapped around a rich filling of mawa (khoya), roasted coconut, almonds and pistachios, fried in ghee and dipped in a warm mix of ghee and icing sugar. Decorated with nuts and rose petals, they're crumbly, rich and fragrant with cardamom. Makes 50.
Ras malai is a much-loved Bengali sweet now made all over India: soft discs of fresh paneer poached in light syrup, then soaked in milk boiled down until rich and creamy and flavoured with saffron. Served chilled, scattered with almonds, pistachios and cardamom. Makes about 50 small pieces.
Rasgulla are soft, spongy balls of fresh paneer cooked in boiling syrup until they swell, then served cold in light rose-scented syrup. This version hides a little sugar lump (sakar) in the centre of each ball. Makes 20; serve chilled after a meal.
Puranpuri (puran poli) is a festive Gujarati and Maharashtrian flatbread stuffed with puran: pigeon pea lentils cooked with sugar until thick, flavoured with saffron, cardamom and fennel. It's rolled thin, cooked on a griddle and drizzled with ghee. Serve hot with kadhi and a curry of your choice.
A modern layered barfi: a chewy base of dates, coconut, cornflakes, chocolate cereal and pistachio, a creamy top of condensed milk, cashews and almonds, and a marbled dark and white chocolate finish. It's rich, crunchy and silky all at once. Makes 35–40 rectangles; great for parties and gift boxes.
A rich, home-made cream liqueur of whisky, cream, condensed and evaporated milk, melted milk chocolate and a touch of coffee. Sweet, smooth and strong: for adults only. Serve chilled over crushed ice, keep it in the fridge and drink within 3 days.
A chocolatey-tasting shake made with carob powder instead of chocolate, blended with milk, yogurt, honey, fresh mint and ground brazil nuts. Creamy and lightly minty. Serve cold.
Crisp fennel juiced with sweet apples, pears and a carrot, giving a fresh juice with a gentle aniseed flavour. Serve it chilled.
A small banana baked in a foil parcel with butter, lemon, a pinch of sugar and cinnamon until soft and fragrant. A warm, easy pudding for babies of 8–18 months, mashed or left in soft pieces for older babies. Serve warm, not hot.
A sweet, creamy chowder of sweetcorn, potato, leek and red pepper simmered in milk, then blended and sieved until silky. It suits babies of 8–18 months, and older children enjoy it unsieved. Serve warm.
A soft, golden hash of butter beans, chickpeas, French beans, carrot and potato, mashed together and pan-fried until crisp on both sides. It's a filling, protein-rich meal for babies and toddlers, moistened with a little home-made vegetable stock. Remember to soak the butter beans and chickpeas the night before.
Rounds of bread spread with cream cheese, soaked in egg custard and baked gently in a water bath until just set. Soft and mild, it suits babies of 8–18 months and makes a good light lunch for toddlers too. Serve warm.
Soft tomatoes and carrot blended with cheddar, ground almonds and milk, then baked in teacups under a golden cheese topping. A gentle, savoury dish for babies of 8–18 months, with plenty of flavour. Serve it just warm, on its own or with soft toast fingers.
A gentle, salt-free vegetable stock for cooking baby food, for babies of 8–18 months. Root vegetables, ginger and a few herbs simmer slowly for two hours, giving a light, sweet stock. Use it for the purees, hash and pasta in this section, and freeze small portions in an ice-cube tray for quick meals.
A jewel-bright juice of strawberries, peaches, red grapes, kiwi, pomegranate and passion fruit. Sweet, tangy and full of fruit, it's a treat for children and grown-ups alike. Serve cold or at room temperature.
Small pasta shapes cooked right in a soft sauce of aubergine, courgette, pepper, mushrooms, sweetcorn and tomato. It's blended for babies of 8–18 months; as they grow, blend it less or not at all. Serve warm.
A light, creamy fool of fresh mango puree, sharpened with lime, folded through whipped cream and yogurt so it's prettily rippled. Served in tall glasses, it's somewhere between a drink and a pudding. Chill for an hour or two and decorate with fresh mango slices just before serving.
A crunchy, creamy coleslaw with shredded cabbage, carrots, apple, peppers and onion, made rich with eggless mayonnaise and chopped cashews. It is a favourite side with pizza, burgers and barbecues. Keep the vegetables chilled and add the mayonnaise just before serving so it stays crisp.
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