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Ponchik
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Ponchik

Custard-filled doughnuts

In Yerevan and Gyumri, the ponchik is a street-corner institution: soft yeast doughnuts fried to order in small shops, slit and piped full of cool vanilla custard, then dusted heavily with icing sugar. Students buy them in paper bags after class and families queue on Sunday mornings. A common mistake is frying in oil that is too hot, which browns the outside before the middle cooks. Chef's tip: keep the oil at 170 °C and fry until the doughnuts have a pale ring around the middle; that ring shows they are light enough to float, and cooked through.

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Shatkora beefBeef curry with wild citrus

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Sheer khurmaVermicelli milk pudding

Sheer khurma means milk with dates in Persian, and in Pakistan it is the taste of Eid ul-Fitr morning: after the Eid prayer, families come home and every visitor who knocks that day is handed a small bowl. It is richer and nuttier than everyday seviyan: whole milk is boiled down until creamy, fine vermicelli fried golden in ghee goes in late, and it is loaded with soaked dried dates (chhuhare), almonds, pistachios, cashews, raisins and charoli seeds, scented with cardamom. It is served warm in the morning and thickens to a spoonable pudding when cold. The mistake most people make is adding the vermicelli too early or using too much; it keeps drinking milk as it cools and turns stodgy. Chef's tip: soak the dried dates overnight and slice them thinly; fresh soft dates melt away, but soaked chhuhare stay chewy and sweet in every spoonful.

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