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Somlói galuska
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Somlói galuska

Hungarian sponge trifle

Somlói galuska was first served at the Gundel restaurant in Budapest in the 1950s and named after the Somló wine hill in western Hungary. Today it is the dessert everyone orders at the end of a Sunday lunch: spoonfuls of three sponges (plain, walnut and cocoa) soaked in rum syrup and layered with vanilla custard, then topped with chocolate sauce and whipped cream. It is assembled the day before and spooned out into rough dumplings, which is where 'galuska' comes from. This version thickens the custard with flour and egg yolk rather than gelatine. Chef's tip: soak the sponge only lightly; it should be moist but still hold a spoon-shaped scoop.

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Buss-up-shutTorn paratha roti

Buss-up-shut is the paratha roti of Trinidad, so called because the torn, flaky pieces look like a 'burst-up shirt'. A soft dough is spread with butter and oil, rolled into a coil to build layers, cooked on a hot tawa, then clapped and beaten with wooden paddles until it breaks into soft, buttery, flaky shreds. It's served in roti shops across Trinidad for scooping up curries, and is always at Hindu weddings and Divali feasts. Chef's tip: beat the roti while it's still scalding hot. The steam inside is what separates the layers, so the moment it leaves the tawa, clap it between your hands (in clean oven gloves) or bash it with two wooden spatulas until it shreds.

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Jamaican carrot juice

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Dhalpuri rotiSplit pea filled flatbread

Dhalpuri is the pride of Trinidad's Indo-Caribbean kitchens and roti shops, from Chaguanas to San Fernando: a large, soft, thin roti with a hidden layer of finely ground, seasoned yellow split peas. It's wrapped around curry channa and aloo, curry pumpkin or curry mango to make a 'roti', or torn and eaten alongside. It came with Indian indentured workers in the 1800s and became something distinctly Trini: thinner and softer than an Indian dal paratha, cooked on a flat iron 'tawa'. Chef's tip: the split peas must be boiled only until just tender, drained, then dried and ground into a fine, dry powder. Any dampness and the roti will burst when you roll it out.

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Acarajé with vegan vatapáBlack-eyed pea fritters with coconut paste

Acarajé is the street food of Salvador da Bahia, fried to order by the baianas de acarajé in their white lace dresses; the craft is protected as part of Brazil's cultural heritage. Peeled black-eyed peas are ground with onion, whipped until light and fried in dendê into crisp, airy fritters, then split and filled with vatapá, a rich paste of coconut, peanuts, cashews and ginger. Street versions add dried shrimp; this one leaves it out and leans on dendê and toasted nuts for depth. Add vinagrete and pepper sauce as they do in Salvador. Chef's tip: beat the bean paste until it's pale and fluffy, and test a little in a glass of water: when it floats, it's ready. That trapped air is what makes acarajé light inside.

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BammyCassava flatbread

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Macaroni pieBaked macaroni and cheese

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Curry channa and alooChickpea and potato curry

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Aloo pieFried potato pastry pockets

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Vegetable pelauRice and pigeon pea one-pot

Pelau is the dish of the Trinidad beach lime and family gathering: rice and pigeon peas cooked in one big pot, coloured a deep brown by sugar caramelised in oil until almost burnt, then simmered with coconut milk, green seasoning and a whole hot pepper. It's usually made with chicken; here deeply browned mushrooms and chunks of pumpkin carry the savoury depth, so it's still rich, smoky-sweet and moreish. Serve with coleslaw, sliced cucumber and pepper sauce. Chef's tip: let the sugar go further than feels safe: it should melt, froth and turn the colour of dark chocolate, just starting to smoke, before anything goes in. Too pale and the pelau tastes sweet; too black and it's bitter.

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Cuscuz nordestinoSteamed flaked corn cake

Cuscuz nordestino has nothing to do with North African couscous: it's a soft, fluffy cake of steamed flaked maize (flocão), eaten every morning across the Northeast, from Pernambuco to Bahia. It's served hot in wedges with a melting slab of butter, often with fried egg, cheese or coconut milk poured over. It's traditionally steamed in a cuscuzeira, a two-tier steamer, but a steamer basket lined with a cloth works too. Chef's tip: let the corn soak up the salted water for 10 minutes, then pack it into the steamer loosely. Pressed down, it turns dense and heavy; loose, it steams into a light cake that still holds together.

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FestivalSweet fried cornmeal dumplings

Festival is a slightly sweet fried dumpling made with flour and cornmeal, and it's the classic partner to everything sold from the beach shacks at Hellshire in St Catherine, just outside Kingston. Each one is shaped like a little tapered log, fried until golden and crackly outside and soft and fluffy inside, with a hint of vanilla. Here they're served with escovitch-style pickled vegetables, steamed callaloo or jerk tofu instead of fried fish. Chef's tip: fry at a steady medium heat, around 170°C. If the oil is too hot, festival browns in a minute and stays raw and doughy in the middle.

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BrigadeiroChocolate condensed milk truffles

Brigadeiro is Brazil's favourite sweet: no birthday party anywhere in the country is complete without trays of them in little paper cases. Condensed milk, cocoa and butter are stirred in a pan until thick, then rolled into soft, fudgy balls and coated in chocolate sprinkles. It's said to be named after Brigadeiro Eduardo Gomes, an air force officer who ran for president in 1945. Chef's tip: learn the ponto (the doneness point). Tilt the pan and drag your spatula through the mixture: when it slides as one mass and you can see the pan base for 2–3 seconds before it closes up, it's ready. Undercooked brigadeiros won't hold a shape; overcooked ones turn chewy.

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Bolo de cenoura com cobertura de chocolateCarrot cake with chocolate topping

Bolo de cenoura is the most loved homemade cake in Brazil, served with coffee at the afternoon lanche all over the country. It's nothing like the spiced, nutty carrot cake of the UK and US: raw carrots are blended smooth with eggs and oil, giving a bright orange, light and moist sponge, finished with a thick chocolate topping that sets with a thin crust. Chef's tip: blend the carrots with the eggs and oil until completely smooth, with no visible bits, and pour the chocolate topping over while the cake is still warm. The topping soaks in a little and sets with the shiny, crackly casquinha (crust) Brazilians love.

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Pholourie with tamarind chutneySplit pea fritters with tamarind chutney

Pholourie are little round fritters sold by the bag at doubles stands, school gates and parties all over Trinidad, especially through Divali and Christmas. A turmeric-yellow batter made with ground split peas and flour is dropped by the spoonful into hot oil, where it puffs into crisp-skinned, soft, spongy balls. They're always served with a sticky tamarind chutney spiked with garlic, shado beni and pepper. Unlike Indian pakoras, there are no vegetables in the batter: pholourie is all about the soft, light dough and the dip. Chef's tip: beat the batter hard for a few minutes until it's thick, smooth and falls off the spoon in a sticky blob. Well-beaten batter traps air, so the pholourie puff up round and light instead of flat and greasy.

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Palm heart and plantain moquecaPalm heart and plantain coconut stew

Moqueca is the great stew of Bahia, cooked in a clay pot with coconut milk, tomatoes, peppers and dendê, the red palm oil that gives Salvador's food its colour and flavour. Fish is usual on the coast, but moqueca de palmito e banana-da-terra, with heart of palm and ripe plantain, is a much-loved vegetarian version: sweet, tangy and fragrant with coriander and lime. Serve with white rice and farofa. Chef's tip: layer the vegetables rather than frying them, and add half the dendê at the start and half at the very end. The final splash keeps its fruity, nutty aroma, which is the real taste of Bahia.

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Tutu de feijãoBean purée with toasted manioc meal

Tutu de feijão is everyday comfort food from Minas Gerais, made from yesterday's beans: they're blended smooth, fried with onion and garlic, then thickened with manioc meal into a soft, spoonable mash. In Minas it comes with pork crackling and sausage; here smoked paprika and a crisp onion topping bring the savoury, smoky edge. Serve with rice, couve à mineira and a fried egg if you eat them. Chef's tip: rain in the manioc meal slowly while stirring, as you would polenta, and stop while it's still a little looser than you want. Tutu firms up as it stands, and too much farinha makes it stodgy.

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Tapioca crêpeCassava starch crêpe

Tapioca is the Northeast's favourite breakfast, cooked on griddles at beach stalls from Recife to Fortaleza and now loved all over Brazil. Damp cassava starch (goma) is sieved into a hot dry pan, where it fuses into a thin white disc that's soft, chewy and slightly crisp. This recipe gives two classic fillings: melting cheese with butter, and coconut with condensed milk. Chef's tip: hydrate the starch until it feels like damp sand that holds when squeezed, then sieve it into the pan and never press it down. A loose, even layer is what makes the starch melt into one lacy, flexible sheet.

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Jamaican callalooSteamed callaloo greens

In Jamaica, callaloo means the leaves and tender stems of a type of amaranth, sold in big bundles in every market from Coronation Market in Kingston to Santa Cruz in St Elizabeth. It's steamed down with onion, tomato, garlic and thyme into soft, savoury greens with a mild mineral sweetness, and eaten at breakfast with fried dumplings, boiled green bananas or hard dough bread, or as a side at dinner. Spinach or Swiss chard can stand in if you can't find callaloo. Chef's tip: peel the fibrous skin from the thicker stems with a small knife and slice the stems and leaves finely across, about 1 cm wide. That's how Jamaican cooks get callaloo that's tender all the way through rather than stringy.

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Vegetable pattiesSpiced vegetable pastry pockets

The patty is Jamaica's favourite grab-and-go food, sold hot from glass cases in patty shops and school canteens across the island, from Half Way Tree in Kingston to Montego Bay. Its signature is the pastry: short, flaky and bright yellow from turmeric, wrapped around a spicy filling and crimped with a fork. This vegetarian version is filled with callaloo, potato, carrot and peas seasoned with curry, thyme and scotch bonnet. Eat them warm, on their own or squeezed inside soft coco bread. Chef's tip: use half butter and half solid vegetable shortening in the pastry, and keep everything cold. The shortening gives the patty its crumbly, flaky snap and the butter gives the flavour.

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FarofaToasted manioc meal

Farofa is on the table at almost every Brazilian meal, from feijoada to Sunday barbecue: coarse manioc (cassava) meal toasted in butter or olive oil with onion and garlic until golden, sandy and nutty. Sprinkle it over beans, stews and moqueca to soak up the juices and add crunch. Bacon is common in the South-East; this butter version is the classic everyday one (use olive oil for a vegan farofa). Chef's tip: toast the manioc over a medium-low heat, stirring constantly, and go by smell and sound. It's ready when it smells like toasted hazelnuts and sounds dry and sandy against the spoon; high heat scorches it in seconds.

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Heart of palm coxinhaHeart of palm croquettes

Coxinha is the king of Brazilian salgados, sold in every padaria and served at every birthday party, especially in São Paulo. The teardrop shape copies a chicken thigh, but coxinha de palmito, filled with soft heart of palm, tomato and creamy cheese, is a much-loved meat-free version. The dough is a cooked, savoury choux-like paste, rolled in breadcrumbs and fried until shatteringly crisp. Chef's tip: cook the dough until it comes away from the pan in one smooth ball, then knead it while still warm with oiled hands. Lumpy or under-cooked dough cracks in the fryer and lets the filling leak.

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QuindimCoconut egg yolk custards

Quindim is a jewel of Bahian sweets: small, shiny, intensely yellow custards made from egg yolks, sugar and grated coconut. It goes back to Portugal's convent sweets, rich in yolks, which cooks in colonial Bahia combined with the coconut of the Brazilian coast. When baked, the coconut sinks to form a chewy base and the yolks set into a silky, translucent top that becomes the shining crown when unmoulded. Chef's tip: strain the yolks so there are no traces of white or the chalazae (the stringy bits). Egg white makes quindim pale and rubbery instead of glossy, deep gold and smooth.

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VinagreteTomato and onion salsa

Vinagrete, also called molho à campanha in the South, is the fresh, tangy salsa that goes on every Brazilian barbecue table and next to feijoada, acarajé and grilled cheese. Finely diced tomato, onion and green pepper are bathed in vinegar, olive oil and a little water, so it's halfway between a salad and a sauce. Chef's tip: soak the chopped onion in cold water for 5 minutes and drain. It takes away the harsh bite while keeping the crunch, so the salsa tastes clean and bright instead of raw.

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Trini callaloo soupDasheen leaf and okra soup

Callaloo is Trinidad and Tobago's national dish and part of the classic Sunday lunch, served beside rice, macaroni pie and stewed peas. Dasheen bush (young taro leaves) is simmered with okra, pumpkin, coconut milk, onion, garlic, chives and thyme, then beaten smooth with a wooden swizzle stick into a thick, velvety green soup. It's usually cooked with crab or salt pork; this vegetarian version leaves them out and adds a pinch of smoked paprika for depth. Spinach and Swiss chard can replace dasheen. Chef's tip: cook the dasheen leaves for at least 25–30 minutes. They must be very soft, both to swizzle silky smooth and because undercooked dasheen leaves make your throat itch.

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Stew peas with spinnersKidney bean stew with dumplings

Stew peas is a thick, comforting Jamaican one-pot of red kidney beans simmered in coconut milk until creamy, studded with 'spinners', small hand-rolled dumplings. It's a classic Wednesday or Saturday dinner across the island, usually cooked with pig's tail and salt beef. Here mushrooms browned hard and a little smoked paprika bring the savoury depth instead, so nothing is missing. Serve over plain white rice. Chef's tip: when the beans are soft, crush a ladleful against the side of the pot. Stew peas should be thick enough to coat the back of a spoon, and the crushed beans give that body without any flour.

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Sorrel drinkHibiscus drink

Sorrel is the drink of a Jamaican Christmas: in December the markets fill with the red flowers (the calyces of a hibiscus), and every home brews a big batch to share. They're steeped with lots of fresh ginger, pimento and cloves, then sweetened, giving a deep ruby drink that's tart, spicy and refreshing over ice. Many families add a splash of white or dark rum for the adults. Chef's tip: be generous with the ginger and let it steep overnight. A long, cool steep pulls out the colour and a fiery ginger bite without the bitterness of over-boiling.

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TotoCoconut cake

Toto is an old-time Jamaican country cake, the kind baked in a 'dutchie' over coals in rural St Mary and St Ann and sold in squares at bakeries and school tuck shops. It's dense and moist rather than light, packed with grated coconut, darkened with brown sugar and fragrant with nutmeg, cinnamon and vanilla. Lovely with a cup of tea, still slightly warm. Chef's tip: use fresh grated coconut if you can, or soak desiccated coconut in the warm coconut milk for 15 minutes first. Dry coconut steals moisture from the batter and leaves the cake crumbly instead of chewy.

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Mushroom and cassava escondidinhoMushroom and cassava bake

Escondidinho ('little hidden one') is a homely baked dish from the Northeast: a savoury filling hidden under a layer of creamy mashed cassava (mandioca or aipim), topped with cheese and baked until golden. The classic is made with carne de sol, the Northeast's sun-dried beef; this vegetarian escondidinho uses mushrooms browned hard with onion, tomato and smoked paprika for the same savoury depth. Serve it with a green salad or couve à mineira. Chef's tip: mash the cassava while it's piping hot and remove the woody core first. Cold cassava turns gluey, and the stringy core spoils the silky texture.

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Pão de queijoCheese bread puffs

Pão de queijo comes from Minas Gerais, where every café and grandmother's kitchen has a tray in the oven for breakfast or afternoon coffee. Made with cassava starch (polvilho) instead of wheat flour, the little rolls are crisp and golden outside and stretchy, cheesy and almost hollow inside. Mineiros use queijo minas meia-cura; a mix of Parmesan-style cheese and mozzarella is the closest match elsewhere. Chef's tip: pour the boiling milk and oil over the starch (escaldar). Scalding cooks part of the starch, and that's what gives the chewy, elastic inside; and use some sour starch (polvilho azedo), which makes them puff up tall.

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Pudim de leite condensadoCondensed milk flan

Pudim de leite condensado is the dessert of Brazilian Sunday lunch, served in every home and por-quilo restaurant from north to south. It's richer and denser than a French crème caramel: condensed milk, milk and eggs baked in a water bath in a ring tin, then turned out under a glossy layer of dark caramel. Chef's tip: bake it gently in a water bath and keep the water just below a simmer. Too much heat makes the bubbles that leave the pudim full of little holes; Brazilians prize a smooth, silky pudim lisinho.

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DorayakiHoney pancakes with sweet bean filling

Dorayaki (どら焼き) are two small, golden honey pancakes pressed around a thick layer of sweet red bean paste (anko). They were first sold in their modern form by a Tokyo sweet shop in the early 1900s, and are now in every Japanese bakery and convenience store. The pancakes are soft, moist and slightly springy, with a deep brown, even surface. A good afternoon treat with green tea, and children love them. Chef's tip: wipe the pan almost dry of oil and keep the heat low. That's how Japanese sweet shops get the smooth, evenly brown 'gong' surface (dora means gong); too much oil gives a blotchy, spotted pancake.

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HotteokFilled sweet fried pancakes

Hotteok (호떡) are chewy, yeasted pancakes filled with brown sugar and cinnamon that melt into a hot syrup as they fry. They are a winter street snack all over Korea, but Busan is known for ssiat hotteok (씨앗호떡), where the fried pancake is slit open and stuffed with a handful of toasted sunflower and pumpkin seeds. Glutinous rice flour in the dough makes it soft and stretchy. Be careful with the first bite, as the filling is very hot. This dough uses milk, so it is vegetarian; use water instead for a dairy-free version. Chef's tip: rest the dough until it has properly doubled and is full of bubbles, and keep your hands oiled. A sticky, well-risen dough gives the chewy, stretchy texture.

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Yaki udonStir-fried udon noodles

Yaki udon (焼うどん) was first made in Kitakyushu, in northern Kyushu, just after the war, when a café owner ran out of soba for yakisoba and fried udon instead. The thick, chewy noodles are tossed in a hot pan with cabbage, onion, mushrooms and carrot, then glazed with soy, mirin and a little vegetarian Worcestershire-style sauce. Meat is usual in Japan; this vegetarian version gets its richness from shiitake and a fried egg on top. A fast, filling weeknight supper. Chef's tip: get the pan really hot and leave the noodles alone for 30 seconds at a time, so they pick up slightly charred edges; that smoky 'koge' is what makes yaki udon taste like the street-stall version.

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Tofu bulgogiTofu in bulgogi marinade

Tofu bulgogi (두부불고기) takes the famous sweet and savoury bulgogi marinade, usually made for thin slices of beef, and uses it on golden pan-fried tofu instead. It is a popular meat-free dish in homes and temple-style restaurants across Korea. Grated pear sweetens the soy and garlic sauce and makes it glossy, and the tofu is fried first so it holds its shape and soaks up the glaze. Serve with rice, lettuce leaves for wrapping and kimchi. Chef's tip: dry the tofu well and leave it alone in the pan until it releases by itself. A good golden crust is what lets it soak up the glaze without falling apart.

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Vegetable onigiriRice balls with vegetables

Onigiri (おにぎり) are Japan's everyday lunchbox and picnic food, sold in every convenience store from Tokyo to Kyushu. Warm rice is pressed around a salty or savoury filling and wrapped in a strip of crisp nori. This recipe gives three vegetarian fillings: sour umeboshi (pickled plum), sweet-salty simmered kombu, and a soy-glazed mushroom and carrot mix. Children love helping to shape them, and they keep well for a packed lunch. Chef's tip: use freshly cooked, still-warm rice and salt your hands, not the rice. The grains stick together only while warm, and the salt on the outside seasons every bite the way a Japanese mother would.

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BindaetteokMung bean pancakes

Bindaetteok (빈대떡) are thick, crunchy pancakes made from soaked and ground mung beans mixed with kimchi, bean sprouts and spring onions, then fried in plenty of oil. They are the signature dish of Gwangjang market in Seoul, where stalls grind the beans in stone mills and fry the pancakes in front of you. Market versions often include pork; this one keeps the classic vegetables and is naturally gluten free and rich in protein. The outside turns deep golden and crisp while the inside stays soft. Serve hot with a soy and onion dip. Chef's tip: grind the beans coarse, not silky, and fry in more oil than feels right. The slight grit is what makes Gwangjang-style bindaetteok so crunchy outside and fluffy inside.

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