Roasted chilli paste
Isan and Lao households keep a jar of this thick, smoky relish in the kitchen the way other cooks keep mustard, scooping it onto sticky rice for a quick lunch or setting it out with steamed vegetables and crackling. Its backbone is pla ra, the funky fermented fish of the north-east, pounded with charred shallots, garlic, galangal and toasted chillies into a dark, rough-textured paste that is salty, sweet-smoky and fiery. For safety and ease this version uses bottled cooked pla ra (or anchovy sauce) and boils it before it goes in, since homemade raw pla ra can carry parasites. Serve with sticky rice, cucumber, cabbage and long beans. Chef's tip: roast the aromatics until properly blackened in patches; the char is the flavour, so don't stop when they are merely soft.
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Aubergine, French beans, cauliflower and carrots are simmered gently in coconut milk until tender, then coated in a thick gravy of coconut cream, a fresh paste of spring onion, coriander root, red chilli, lemongrass, galangal and lime peel, and a finish of roasted peanuts and tamarind. Rich, tangy and fragrant. Serve hot with steamed rice.
A light, aromatic Thai-style soup of mixed vegetables simmered in a clear broth with lemongrass, galangal, lime leaves, garlic, mint and soy sauce. It is fresh and fragrant rather than rich, and low in fat. Serve hot as a starter, sprinkled with fresh coriander.
A quick Thai red curry with a home-made paste of soaked red chillies, onion, garlic, ginger, lemongrass, coriander, cumin and white pepper. Crunchy baby corn, broccoli, carrot and mushrooms simmer in coconut milk with basil until the sauce is creamy and gently thickened. The paste is also used in several other Thai recipes in this collection. Serve warm with rice.
Small, soft pancakes made from plain flour, rice flour and semolina, sweetened with condensed milk and scented with mango, folded around a sticky filling of ripe mango, sugar and coconut. They are served cold with extra mango and a scoop of ice cream or fresh cream: a lovely make-ahead dessert for a party.
A sweet-and-savoury Thai fruit salad: crisp apple, banana, semi-ripe papaya and mango tossed in a coconut milk dressing sharpened with lime and warmed with fresh red chilli and a little red curry paste. Fresh coriander lifts it, and it is served chilled on lettuce leaves. Good as a starter, with a curry, or on its own on a hot day.
A crunchy, refreshing salad in the style of Thai som tam: shredded green (unripe) papaya, French beans and carrot, barely softened, then tossed with tamarind, lemon, garlic, chilli, soy sauce and sugar and finished with roasted peanuts. Sweet, sour, salty and hot all at once. Serve cold as a starter or with a curry and rice.
Coarsely ground sweetcorn is bound with rice flour, soy sauce and red curry paste, shaped into little oval cutlets and deep-fried until crisp outside and soft and sweet inside. They come with a rich, gently spicy peanut sauce made from coconut milk and curry paste. Serve hot as a starter or a snack.
A mild, fragrant Thai green curry made with a fresh paste of green chillies, garlic, lemongrass, coriander and lemon, simmered with coconut milk, a big mix of vegetables and soft cubes of paneer. The sauce is creamy and herby rather than fiery, and the vegetables keep a little bite. Serve hot with plain steamed rice or jasmine rice.
A rich, fragrant Thai soup: tofu strips, small aubergines, French beans and broccoli simmered in vegetable stock and coconut milk flavoured with red curry paste, lime leaves, lemongrass, galangal, lime rind, garlic and fresh basil. Garnished with slit chillies and served hot. Cook it close to serving time, as Thai dishes don't reheat well. You can use a ready-made red curry paste (check it is free of shrimp paste) or make the paste ahead and freeze it.
A quick vegetarian fried rice: boiled rice tossed in a hot wok with garlic, ginger, red kidney beans, sweetcorn, fresh pineapple, tomato, soy sauce and black pepper. Served hot with chopped spring onions and cucumber. Thai dishes are best cooked close to serving time.
A bowl of colourful fresh fruit (kiwi, strawberries, pineapple, cherries and orange) covered with a smooth coconut cream sauce, lightly thickened with cornflour, enriched with fresh cream and scented with rose. Serve well chilled.
Cubes of tofu coated in seasoned cornflour and fried until crisp, then tossed quickly in a hot wok with sliced white onion, strips of red chilli, green chilli and garlic, and finished with plenty of spring onions. Spicy, crunchy and ready in minutes; serve straight away as a starter or with rice. Like most Thai dishes it is best cooked just before serving, as it doesn't reheat well.
Thin, crackly rolls of buttered fillo pastry wrapped around a filling of walnuts, almonds, sugar, cinnamon and clove, baked until light golden and then bathed in a warm syrup scented with lemon rind, cinnamon and cloves. Like little baklava fingers, sweet and nutty. Serve with coffee or mint tea; they keep well for a few days.
Thin potato crisps blanched in salted water with citric acid and dried in the sun, a traditional store-cupboard standby for fasting days. Fried in seconds when needed, they puff up light, crisp and white. Sprinkle with black pepper or chilli powder. Drying takes 1–2 days of strong sun.
A lighter, eggless quiche: a crisp wholemeal pastry case made with soya spread, filled with red and green peppers and mushrooms bound with cottage cheese, soya yogurt and grated soya cheese, and baked until set. Serve hot with a green salad.
A pretty, low-fat dessert: short-grain rice simmered slowly in semi-skimmed milk with cinnamon until thick and creamy, sweetened and flavoured with orange rind, then pressed into a ring mould over a layer of dried fruit and chilled. Turned out, it shows off a jewelled top. Serve chilled, with a little orange juice spooned over.
Soft, spiced farari thepla made with ground soaked sago, rajagra (amaranth) and moraiyo (samo) flours and mashed potato, kneaded with yogurt and seasoned with sesame, coriander, chilli and ginger. They're rolled between sheets of plastic, as there's no gluten to hold them, and shallow fried on a griddle. Serve with yogurt or farari kofta curry. Soak the sago 6 hours ahead. Makes 15.
A cool, creamy farari chatako of boiled potato, ripe banana and tomato folded into beaten yogurt with green chilli, ginger, fresh coconut and sultanas. It's sweet, tangy and gently hot, and ready in minutes once the potatoes are boiled. Serve it as a snack or side on fasting days.
Soft, thick uttapam for fasting days, made from a yogurt batter of samo (moraiyo), singoda (water chestnut) flour and rajagra (amaranth) flour, tempered with cumin and curry leaves and studded with cucumber, tomato, coconut and green chilli. Cooked under a lid, they're crisp at the edges and fluffy in the middle. Serve with yogurt and green chutney. Makes 6.
A crunchy, high-fibre and low-calorie salad of boiled sprouted pulses (moth beans, chickpeas, green grams) with apple, orange segments, grapes, radish, salad leaves and spinach, lifted with a little green chilli. A light mint and yogurt dressing goes on just before serving. Serve chilled as a starter or light lunch.
A classic Turkish dish whose name means 'the imam fainted', supposedly with delight. Aubergine shells are fried in olive oil and filled with their own flesh cooked with tomatoes, onion, red and green peppers, garlic and herbs, then baked until meltingly tender. Finished with lemon and parsley; good hot or cold with bread, salad and creamy garlic dip.
Samo (also called moraiyo, sama or barnyard millet) is the fasting-day stand-in for rice. Here it's simmered with potato cubes and crushed roasted peanuts after a ghee tempering of cumin, cloves and cinnamon, then finished with lemon and coriander. It's soft, nutty and mildly spiced. Serve it hot with yogurt or farari potato kadhi.
Crisp, golden sago wada made from mashed potato, sago pearls and cassava flour, seasoned with green chilli, ginger, coarse black pepper and sesame, then rolled in soaked sago so the outside fries into a crunchy, pearly crust. Serve hot with coconut chutney on fasting days. Makes 20.
On fasting days gram flour is off the menu, so this kadhi is thickened with mashed potato and coarsely ground peanuts instead. The buttermilk is tempered with ghee, cumin, cloves, cinnamon and curry leaves, and finished sweet-sour in the Gujarati way. Serve hot with farari samo khichdi.
Crumbly, melt-in-the-mouth nankhatai made for fasting days with cassava flour and powdered cashews instead of wheat flour, rich with ghee and coconut and scented with cardamom. Each one is topped with half a cherry. They bake only until barely coloured. Makes 45 small biscuits (about 3 per serving).
Quick, low-calorie party bites: warm diced potato tossed with chilli, cumin, onion, green chilli and coriander is piled onto thin canapé or water biscuits, topped with sweetened low-fat yogurt and drizzled with mint and onion chutney and tamarind chutney, like a mini chaat. Assemble just before serving so the biscuits stay crisp.
Crisp fried farari muthia made from very finely diced potato, crushed roasted peanuts, soaked sago and rajagra (amaranth) flour, seasoned with ginger, chilli, black pepper and a sweet-sour finish. They're crunchy outside and soft inside. Garnish with coriander and fresh coconut and serve hot as a fasting-day snack.
Soft spiced potato kofta rolled in rajagra (amaranth) flour, fried crisp and dropped into a rich tomato and cashew gravy flavoured with coriander seeds and black pepper. It's a festive main dish for a fasting day, with no grains, onion or garlic. Add the kofta just before serving so they stay soft but hold their shape, and serve with farari thepla.
The fasting-day gulab jambu: soft balls of mawa (khoya) and mashed potato bound with cassava flour, scented with saffron and cardamom, fried slowly to a deep golden brown and soaked in cardamom syrup with pistachios and almonds. Soak them for 3–4 hours so they turn juicy all the way through. Makes 35 small jambu.
Golden potato pattice stuffed with fresh coconut, coriander and a sweet-sour lemon seasoning, bound with cassava flour so they suit a fasting day. The outside fries crisp while the inside stays soft, with a juicy coconut centre. Serve them hot with coconut chutney as a farari snack or light meal. Makes 15.
The fasting-day version of Gujarati chevdo: fine strips and round crisps of fried potato tossed with fried peanuts, cashews, green chillies, curry leaves and coriander, and seasoned with black pepper, sugar, salt and a touch of citric acid. It's crunchy, peppery, sweet and tangy. Make a big batch, store it airtight and serve it on fasting days with tea. Makes about 1 kg.
Slices of matoke (green cooking banana) cooked with cumin, chilli and ginger in a tomato sauce thickened with roasted peanuts, a simple vegan curry for fasting days. The bananas turn tender and potato-like and soak up the nutty, tangy sauce. For a farari potato curry, use yogurt instead of tomatoes and potatoes instead of the bananas.
A crunchy, nutty barfi of roasted sesame seeds and ground peanuts set in a two-thread sugar syrup, pressed into a tray and topped with chopped peanuts. It's sweet and toasty, like a soft brittle, and keeps well. Good for fasting days and the winter festivals. Makes 20 pieces.
A creamy, chilled kheer of small sago pearls simmered in milk with sugar, pistachios, almonds, cashews, cardamom and saffron, then mixed with a separate milk of apricots, figs and raisins and fresh green grapes. It's sweet, fragrant and full of texture. A party-size dessert for fasting days or festivals. Serves 15.
A refreshing, lighter mango lassi made with low-fat yogurt: ripe mangoes, yogurt, a little sugar and rose water are blended with water until smooth and frothy, chilled and poured over crushed ice. Perfect on a hot day or with a spicy meal.
A creamy, dairy-free and low-calorie 'ice cream' made by blending frozen banana and strawberries with silken tofu, honey and vanilla until thick and smooth. Layer it with chopped fresh fruit and garnish with mint. Serve straight away.
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