Eel and potato paprika stew
In El Palmar and the other villages around the Albufera lagoon south of Valencia, the restaurants that are famous for paella serve something older first: all i pebre, "garlic and pepper", a brick-red stew of lagoon eel and potatoes thickened with a pounded almond and fried-bread picada. It is rich, garlicky and gently hot, eaten with bread to mop up the sauce. Ask your fishmonger to skin and cut the eel, and handle it with gloves: raw eel blood is irritating, though harmless once cooked. If you can't find eel, monkfish or hake works well. A common mistake is letting the paprika burn; it turns bitter in seconds, so add it off the heat. Chef's tip: break the potatoes with a knife instead of cutting cleanly; the rough edges release starch and thicken the sauce.
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A tropical take on trifle: biscuits soaked in sherry or fruit juice, then layered with orange jelly, mango, kiwi and passion fruit, thick custard and softly whipped cream, finished with toasted almonds. It's fruity, creamy and colourful. Ordinary packet jelly is made with gelatine, which isn't vegetarian, and sherry is alcoholic; the steps give swaps for both.
A no-bake layered pudding with the flavours of piña colada: tea biscuits soaked in pineapple syrup, layered with vanilla whipped cream, fresh coconut and crushed pineapple, and topped with toasted coconut. It's creamy, tropical and alcohol-free. Make it a few hours ahead and serve chilled.
A Swedish tea ring is a sweet yeast dough rolled around butter, brown sugar, cinnamon, dried fruit and nuts, shaped into a ring and snipped so the filling shows, then glazed with lemon icing. This version has no egg. It's soft, spiced and fruity; serve it warm with tea or coffee. Cuts into about 25 slices.
A striking three-layer barfi: a white layer of milk powder and coconut, a middle of melted chocolate, and a yellow layer of saffron cashew fudge on top. Cut into diamonds, it shows off its stripes and tastes rich, nutty and creamy. Makes 30–35; a showpiece for festive sweet boxes.
A homely apple pie: crisp shortcrust filled with cooking apples simmered with lemon, cinnamon, sultanas and walnuts, finished with a pastry lattice brushed with butter and brown sugar. It's tart-sweet and warming. Serve warm with ice cream or hot thick custard.
A no-churn cassata of three layers frozen together: vanilla with chopped nuts, strawberry, and mint with chocolate chips. The base is whipped cream and whisked frozen evaporated milk, so no ice-cream machine is needed. It makes about 3 litres; slice it for parties.
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A two-minute dessert for one: scoops of vanilla ice cream sprinkled with crushed amaretti biscuits and drizzled with amaretto. It's creamy, crunchy and almondy. The amaretto is alcoholic and amaretti biscuits are usually made with egg white, so check the packet; see the last step for swaps.
A rich no-bake dessert of ground brown bread mixed with drinking chocolate, nuts, dried fruit and brown sugar, soaked with cream and topped with a smooth white chocolate, cream cheese and sour cream layer. It's creamy, chocolatey and fruity. Make it in a glass bowl and serve chilled.
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Roasted fine vermicelli cooked in milk until thick with saffron, cardamom and sugar, with chopped apple stirred in, then cooled and topped with ice cream, crunchy roasted vermicelli and nuts. It's creamy, fragrant and fun to eat. Serve it cool in individual bowls.
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A quick, modern ras malai: ricotta beaten with sugar and cardamom, baked until just set, cut into squares and soaked overnight in cream scented with kewra (screwpine) essence. It's soft, creamy and delicately perfumed, without the work of making paneer. Serve chilled with almond and pistachio flakes.
A light, set milk pudding inspired by faluda: milk and evaporated milk sweetened and set with agar-agar, tinted pale pink and flavoured with cardamom. It's cool, smooth and wobbly, and fully vegetarian. Serve chilled in little bowls, topped with almonds and pistachios.
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A quick no-bake trifle-style pudding: squares of lightly toasted bread soaked in orange juice, layered with sweetened cream, cornflakes, nuts and fresh fruit, and topped with vanilla ice cream. It's crunchy, creamy and fruity. Serve it straight away so the cornflakes stay crisp.
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A cool layered pudding of ripe mango with cardamom and almonds, covered with a vanilla milk 'faluda' set with agar-agar. It's fruity, creamy and lightly spiced, and fully vegetarian. Make it in a glass dish so the layers show, and serve chilled with mango slices, cherries and almonds.
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Warm new potatoes boiled in their skins and tossed in one of three dressings: creamy parsley sour cream, a tangy basil vinaigrette, or a fresh 'greeny' dressing of cottage cheese and herbs. Each dressing is enough for 500 g of potatoes, so make one, or make all three for a party. Serve the salad chilled on a bed of lettuce with a spoonful of single cream on top.
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