Tripe and potato stew
In Guayaquil, guatita is the dish people seek out on a Sunday morning or after a long night: honeycomb tripe simmered until meltingly tender, then stewed with potatoes in a creamy peanut and milk sauce coloured with achiote. It is served with white rice, avocado, fried ripe plantain and a sharp red-onion curtido. Peanuts are a major allergen. The most common mistake is undercooking the tripe, which stays rubbery; it needs about 2½ hours of simmering (45 minutes in a pressure cooker). Chef's tip: buy cleaned, blanched tripe and still give it a scrub with lime and salt before cooking; it freshens the flavour.
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Onions fried gently until soft and sweet, then blended with fresh mint, green chilli and lemon juice. It's a mellow, fresh-tasting chutney that is great with bhajias, samosas, kebabs and tikka, or spread in sandwiches.
A crunchy salad of red, yellow and green peppers with roasted peanuts, cucumber, carrots and celery, dressed with lemon, dill, mint and celery leaves. Just before serving, olive oil mixed with sesame seeds is poured over the top. It's colourful, filling and full of protein.
A crunchy, raita-like dip of sour cream packed with cucumber, coloured peppers, carrot and onion, with fresh coriander, green chilli and cumin. Chill it for a few hours so the flavours blend. Serve it with rice, naan or pitta.
A thick, creamy mint chutney made with hung-yogurt cottage cheese, so it clings to grilled food without running. It's fresh with mint and coriander and gently spicy. Serve it with barbecued paneer and vegetable skewers, tikka, kebabs and corn on the cob.
A thick, fresh chutney of grated coconut and raw mango blended with coconut water, chilli and coriander. With no yogurt it's dairy free and keeps its fresh coconut taste. It's served in East Africa with lentil fritters (bhajia), Zanzibar mix and Mombasa mix.
A simple, tangy dip made with thick home-made cottage cheese (hung yogurt) or ready-made sour cream, seasoned with garlic, chilli, black pepper and vinegar. Serve it cold with crisps, nachos and jacket potatoes. The book's other dips use this as their 'sour cream'.
A very hot, deep-red paste of garlic, red chilli powder and roasted cumin with lemon juice and a little jaggery. Just a little adds a punch to bhel, sev puri, dabeli, vada pav and sandwiches. It keeps for a couple of weeks in a jar in the fridge.
A fresh, crunchy salad of home-sprouted mung beans with juicy pineapple, coconut, cucumber and cherry tomatoes, dressed with orange juice, balsamic vinegar and olive oil. It is light, sweet and tangy, full of protein, and makes a healthy lunch on its own. Chill everything well, and add the lettuce at the last minute so it stays crisp.
Sliced tomatoes, creamy avocado and spring onions in a honey, mustard and red wine vinegar dressing, with tortilla chips stirred in at the end for crunch. It is a quick, Mexican-style side for parties and barbecues. Add the chips just before serving and eat it straight away, before they soften.
A big, bright salad of red, green and yellow peppers, boiled peanuts, sweet corn, grapes, apple and coconut, tossed in a sweet-sour passion fruit and mint dressing. It is very popular at big parties: it looks festive, keeps its crunch and is easy to double. Serve it on a bed of crisp lettuce.
Soft bulgar wheat topped with fennel wedges roasted with orange peel and juice until sweet and charred, then tossed with cherry tomatoes, olives, parsley and mint. It is fresh and filling, good as a light main course or alongside grilled vegetables and paneer. Serve it warm or at room temperature.
Carrots, turnips, three colours of pepper, cucumber, onion and tomato cut into fine matchsticks and spiced with chilli, lemon and coriander. A sizzling dressing of hot oil with cumin, mustard and sesame seeds is poured over at the table. It is crunchy and bright, and should be eaten as soon as it's dressed.
A hot, garlicky chutney of tomatoes cooked down with garlic paste, red chilli and cumin, then mashed until coarse. It's served alongside pav bhaji for extra heat, and is also good with vada pav, dabeli and toasted sandwiches.
A savoury yogurt raita full of finely chopped carrot, tomato, pepper, onion and green chilli, seasoned with chilli, cumin, black pepper and a dash of vinegar. It's cool, crunchy and lightly spiced. Serve it with rice dishes and biryani.
A smooth, tangy tomato salsa of blanched tomatoes, sautéed onion, garlic, chilli and plenty of oregano, with a touch of cumin and coriander seed. Serve it with nacho triangles, tacos, quesadillas or as a dip for any snack.
The everyday Gujarati green chutney: fresh coriander, hot green chillies, raw mango and green pepper blended coarsely with fafadia gathia, which thickens it and stops it going watery. It's hot, tangy and a little sweet. Serve it with dhokla, khandvi, sandwiches and all kinds of farsan.
A crunchy Indian-style salad of finely shredded cabbage, fresh coconut, fried red peanuts and cashews, with plenty of chilli. The lemon dressing is tempered: mustard seeds are popped in hot oil first, which gives it a lovely nutty flavour. Serve it as a side with dal and rice, or with any Gujarati meal.
Soft baked aubergine scooped from its skin and blended with tahini dip, lemon, garlic, green chilli, basil and mint. It's creamy and smoky, a little like baba ganoush. Serve it with hot pitta bread.
A thick, creamy garlic dip of sour cream and eggless mayonnaise with garlic paste, red pepper and dried parsley. Leaving it overnight lets the garlic flavour develop fully. Serve it with vegetable sticks, chips, crackers or potato wedges.
A smooth, glossy red chilli sauce of salted fresh red chillies blended with tomato sauce, vinegar, garlic and jaggery. Salting the chillies overnight softens them and takes off some of the rawness. It keeps for weeks in a glass jar in the fridge and goes with spring rolls, samosas and noodles.
Crisp-tender snow peas, baby carrots and baby corn are boiled briefly, then mixed with quickly stir-fried courgettes, peppers and spring onions. Everything is tossed in a zingy dressing of chives, parsley, coriander, lemon and plenty of garlic. It is a warm salad that makes a light meal on its own.
Crisp samosa-pastry cones stuffed with paneer, spring onion, coconut, aniseed and green chilli, dipped in batter and rolled in sesame breadcrumbs before frying. They look impressive on a party platter. Serve with red, green and tamarind chutneys.
A layered party dip: creamy cream cheese and feta sandwiching a bright green basil, spinach and parmesan pesto and a layer of sundried tomato paste. It's set in a lined bowl, then turned out so the layers show. Serve it with pieces of bread or crackers.
Short pieces of spaghetti in a peppery batter, fried in small balls until golden and crunchy. Kids love them. Serve hot with the quick tomato-chilli sauce.
Crumbly, buttery cheese pastry cut into strips, twisted, and baked with poppy seeds until crisp and golden. Serve them warm, or cool and store them in a tin for snacking.
Crisp, buttery crackers topped with a chaat-style mixture of crushed roasted peanuts, chilli, garlic, coriander and lemon. There's no cooking: just mix and spoon on. Assemble them just before serving so the crackers stay crisp.
Small, soft bread rolls made with half plain and half wholemeal flour, shaped long and baked until golden. They're best warm from the oven with a bowl of soup, and freeze well once cooled.
Bite-sized samosas filled with a tangy, sweet and spicy mix of crushed sev, fried lentils, nuts, crisps and sweet mango pickle. 'Chatpatta' means tangy and spicy. They keep for up to a month in an air-tight container, so they're perfect for parties and Diwali. Instead of making each savoury, you can use leftover farsan like chevdo, bhusu or gathiya.
Crisp slices of ciabatta or French bread topped with fresh tomato, spring onion and herbs, then grilled under cheddar until it bubbles. They're quick to make and ideal as a starter or a party snack. Serve hot.
A hearty Italian vegetable soup with cannellini beans, cabbage and a little spaghetti, finished with a bright basil and tomato pesto stirred in at the end. Don't let it boil hard once the vegetables are in: over-boiled soups lose their colour and body. Serve hot with crisp garlic toast.
A smooth, everyday soup of carrots and tomatoes, blended with potato for body and finished with a cumin tempering and mixed herbs. For a plain tomato soup, use more tomatoes and fewer carrots; for cream of tomato soup, stir in 4 tbsp fresh cream. Serve hot with garlic bread.
Slices of long bread roll grilled on one side, then spread with a spiced garlic butter flavoured with cumin, black pepper and green and red chilli chutneys, and grilled again until golden. Quick to make and good with drinks.
Cashews fried until golden and tossed while hot with black salt, coriander-cumin powder, chilli and turmeric. Black salt gives them a tangy, savoury flavour. Cool them before serving; they keep for 2 weeks in an air-tight jar.
A clear, gingery broth with mushrooms, Chinese cabbage and fine rice noodles, seasoned with soy sauce and a little cider vinegar. It's light and quick, and good when you want something warming but not heavy. Serve it in warmed bowls.
Little cocktail samosas filled with chopped cashews, sautéed onion, coriander, chilli and a touch of lemon. The filling is rich and nutty with a gentle heat. Fry them slowly so the pastry turns golden and crisp all the way through, and serve hot with lemon wedges.
A silky, deep orange soup of carrots and onion with plenty of fresh ginger, sweetened with a little honey and finished with butter. It's light, warming and good for a cold day. Serve it topped with fine shreds of fresh ginger and some bread sticks.
A quick, bright green broccoli soup blended with garlic and basil, with yogurt for a gentle tang. Cook it just until hot: boiling it hard would split the yogurt. Serve hot with toast.
Long strips of mixed vegetables simmered in a cumin, ginger, garlic and chilli broth, with halved cashews for richness and crunch. It's light but warming, and ready in about half an hour. Serve it hot.
A rustic soup made by roasting potato, carrot, onion and celery until caramelised, then blending them smooth. It's topped with crisp roast potatoes and garlic, a swirl of cream and mixed herbs. Serve hot with croutons.
A smooth, pale green soup of ripe avocado, cucumber, lime and coriander, blended and served cold. It's refreshing on a hot day; serve it with lime quarters, coarse salt and nacho triangles. Mexicans also serve it hot: make it with boiling vegetable stock instead of cold water, just before serving, and don't reheat it.
Thin squares of paneer sandwiched with a fresh coriander, mint and chilli filling, dipped in a spiced gram-flour batter and fried until golden. Soft inside and crisp outside. Serve hot with chilli sauce, ketchup or chutney.
Peanuts coated in a spiced batter of maize and gram flour, chilli, yogurt and lemon, left overnight to soak up the flavours and then deep fried until crunchy. A classic bitting to keep in a jar for guests.
Chips coated in a thick, tangy masala of browned onions, garlic, ginger, tomato and yogurt, spiced with freshly roasted and ground coriander, cumin, pepper and dried chilli. A street-food favourite in East Africa. Serve hot.
A bright green soup of peas and lentils, thickened with a buttery curry roux and finished with mint and cream. Thin spaghetti makes it filling, and crisp three-cheese toast on the side turns it into a proper meal.
Crisp nacho triangles layered with a garlicky sour cream, jalapeño chillies and cheddar, baked for just 5 minutes until the cheese melts. Serve straight away with hot salsa. You can also serve the sour cream and salsa separately as dips.
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