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Tokmach
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Tokmach

Chicken broth with egg noodles

Tatar grandmothers in Kazan roll the noodle dough for this soup so thin you can read through it, then cut it into fine ribbons and dry them on a cloth. The broth is simple and golden: chicken legs, onion, a bay leaf, a little black pepper. It is the soup made for guests, for a sick child and for the morning after a wedding, and in Tatarstan it is often eaten with a slice of bread and a pot of black tea. Where most people go wrong is cooking the noodles in the clear broth straight from the board: they shed flour and cloud it, so shake off the excess first. Chef's tip: let the cut noodles dry for 20 minutes, they hold their shape in the hot broth and stay silky rather than gummy.

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