Wok-fried vegetables
Saltado comes from Lima's chifa tradition, the cooking of Chinese-Peruvian families who brought the wok to Peru in the nineteenth century. The famous version is lomo saltado with beef; this saltado de verduras uses meaty mushrooms in its place. Thick wedges of red onion and tomato are tossed over a fierce flame with garlic, ají amarillo, soy sauce and a splash of vinegar until just wilted, so the vegetables keep their shape and the pan juices turn smoky and savoury. It is always served with both chips and white rice, which soak up those juices. Chef's tip: cook in two batches if your pan is small; a crowded wok steams the vegetables instead of searing them, and the tomatoes collapse into soup.
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Soft, fluffy semolina (rava) idlis made in half an hour, with no grinding or fermenting: the batter is raised with fruit salt. They're topped with a tempering of mustard, cumin, curry leaves, green chilli, fresh coconut and coriander. Serve with green and coconut chutneys.
Gujarati-style samosas: thin, crisp pastry pockets folded into triangles and filled with peas, potato and carrot, sweet, sour and spicy with lemon, sugar, chilli and cinnamon-clove powder. Make the samosa chapaties (pastry) from the recipe in the Basics section. Serve with lemon wedges and green, red and tamarind chutneys.
Soft, golden bread buns with a surprise inside: choose a cheesy three-pepper and spring onion filling, a spicy peas kachori filling, or buttery mushrooms, or make some of each. They're perfect with soup or for a party table.
A hearty, family-friendly bake of shell pasta and baked beans in a spicy tomato, ginger and garlic sauce, topped with cheddar and capsicum rings. Serve hot with garlic bread.
Chatako is a festive Gujarati mixed dish: slices of patra (steamed colocasia leaf rolls) tossed with potatoes and fresh green pigeon peas in a whole-spice tempering, then folded into a tangy yogurt masala with coconut, ginger, tomato and coriander, sweet-sour with jaggery and tamarind. Serve hot as a side dish with dinner or at tea-time parties. Ready-made patra from an Indian grocer works too.
Small mushroom caps are filled with a garlicky, spicy breadcrumb and onion paste, dipped in a three-flour batter and fried until golden. They are crisp outside and juicy inside. Serve them hot with chilli sauce.
Little broccoli patties bound with gram flour and breadcrumbs, seasoned with garlic, green chilli and cumin, rolled in sesame seeds and pan-fried until golden. They make a light starter or snack. Serve hot with mint and yogurt chutney.
Instant dhokri are soft, spongy steamed squares of gram flour and dhokra flour, raised in minutes with fruit salt instead of an overnight ferment. They're finished with a crackling tempering of mustard seeds, sesame and curry leaves. Serve with green and red chutneys. To make dhokra flour, coarsely grind 1 cup long-grain rice with 1 cup bengal gram lentils (chana dal).
A family-style vegetarian take on enchiladas: crisp fried maize tortillas dipped in a home-made tomato and red chilli sauce, stacked with a paneer, onion and capsicum filling, topped with cheese and baked until bubbling. Serve hot with chilli sauce. You can use 2 cups ready-made grated paneer instead of home-made.
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