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Idli upma
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Idli upma

Crumbled idli stir-fry

Tamil households steam more idlis than anyone can eat, and next morning the cold leftovers become idli upma, sometimes called idli podi upma or uthiri idli. They are crumbled by hand and tossed in sesame or coconut oil with mustard seeds, two dals, curry leaves, onion and green chilli, so they turn fluffy and savoury, with crunchy bits of dal. It is ready in fifteen minutes and goes into school boxes in Chennai and Coimbatore with a spoon of coconut chutney or a sprinkle of idli podi. The common mistake is crumbling warm, freshly steamed idlis, which mash into a paste; they must be cold, ideally straight from the fridge. Chef's tip: go easy on salt, as the idlis are already seasoned.

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