Dry coconut chicken masala
Kori sukka comes from the Bunt and Catholic kitchens of Mangaluru and Udupi, where it is cooked for village feasts, Monti Fest, weddings and slow Sunday lunches. 'Sukka' means dry: bone-in chicken is cooked in a fiery paste of roasted byadgi chillies, coriander, cumin, pepper and tamarind, then tossed with grated coconut that has been roasted to a deep brown until every piece is coated in a coarse, nutty, smoky masala. Byadgi chillies give a brilliant red colour with moderate heat, so the result is spicy but rounded. Cook the chicken to 74 °C at the thickest part before the coconut goes in. Serve with neer dosa, rice and a thin rasam, or with kori rotti. Common mistake: roasting the coconut over too high a heat; it burns from golden to bitter in seconds, so keep the flame low and stir constantly. Chef's tip: grind the masala coarse, not smooth, and add the roasted coconut only at the end so it keeps its texture.
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