Earth-baked potatoes
After the potato harvest in May and June, families in Puno, Cusco and across the highlands build a huatia in the field: a little dome of dry earth clods heated with dried brush until the clods glow, then knocked down over freshly dug potatoes and oca so they bake slowly underground. Opened an hour later, the potatoes are smoky, floury and so soft their skins split, and the oca turns sweet and tangy. Everyone eats them with their hands, with salt, chilli sauce and fresh cheese. This recipe gives an oven method for home cooks: a lidded pot bedded with coarse salt and herbs, which traps heat and steam much like the earth. If you do try a real huatia outdoors, use a clear patch of ground away from anything that can catch fire and keep water nearby. Don't uncover the pot early to check: the steam escapes and the potatoes turn leathery. Fresh oca is sold in some markets as New Zealand yam; small sweet potatoes will do. Chef's tip: choose potatoes of a similar size so they all finish together, and serve with uchucuta.
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A generous pie of firm pears, cooking apples and raisins with lemon, baked in a crisp shortcrust case under a cinnamon crumble made crunchy with cornflakes. It's fruity, tangy and buttery. Serve it warm with ice cream.
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Fresh watermelon juice blended with banana, plain yogurt, a little honey and ice into a light, pink smoothie. Sweet, cooling and creamy. Serve chilled.
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A thick, fragrant blend of ripe guava, mango and banana, boosted with a spoonful of guava powder from the health shop. The book calls it a modern-day vitality drink, drawing on guava's long use in traditional Indian medicine. Serve it well chilled; sieve it if you don't like the little guava seeds.
Flaked rice (pauva) simmered in milk until soft and creamy, then stirred with apple puree and a little ground almond. A comforting afternoon meal for babies of 8–18 months. Almond essence is strong: a tiny drop is plenty.
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Finely ground oats cooked in milk and water until smooth and creamy, with a little sieved banana for natural sweetness. A warm, filling breakfast for babies of 4–8 months. Grind a batch of oats in advance and keep it in a jar.
A crunchy, creamy coleslaw with shredded cabbage, carrots, apple, peppers and onion, made rich with eggless mayonnaise and chopped cashews. It is a favourite side with pizza, burgers and barbecues. Keep the vegetables chilled and add the mayonnaise just before serving so it stays crisp.
Fresh pineapple blended with a little ginger and a small bunch of mint for a sweet, zingy juice. Quick to make and very refreshing. Serve cold.
A bright green, savoury puree of potato, mushrooms and fresh spinach cooked in home-made baby stock. Thick and smooth, it's a good way to get iron-rich greens into babies of 8–18 months. Serve warm; spare portions freeze well.
A smooth, naturally sweet puree of gently stewed apple and pear, one of the first foods for babies of 4–8 months. The fruit cooks in a little unsweetened apple juice, so nothing else is needed. Serve it lukewarm; any leftover keeps covered in the fridge for a day, or freezes well in small pots.
A smooth, savoury first meal of rice with carrot, new potatoes and spinach, pureed with baby milk for babies of 4–8 months. Use plain, unsalted cooked rice. Make it a little thicker as your baby gets used to texture.
A thick, velvety smoothie of ripe avocado blended with skimmed milk, low-fat yogurt and ice, with kelp powder and a pinch of nutmeg. Creamy and filling, almost a meal in a glass. Serve chilled.
A thick, indulgent shake of chocolate ice cream, milk and chocolate syrup, topped with grated chocolate. It's ready in minutes and loved by children. Serve at once, while it's frosty.
Sweet potato baked whole until soft and caramelised, then mashed with milk and a pinch of ground coriander. Naturally sweet and smooth, it's a favourite first food for babies of 4–8 months. One sweet potato makes more than a baby can eat, so freeze the rest in small portions.
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