Mkate wa mofaMillet and wheat flatbread
Before dawn in Lamu's narrow lanes, bakers slap rounds of mofa dough onto the hot walls of a clay oven, and by breakfast the breads are stacked in baskets beside glasses of spiced tea. The dough mixes millet and wheat flour with coconut milk, a little sugar and cardamom, then ferments overnight, so each bread comes out soft and slightly chewy with a tangy, nutty taste and a blistered top. Islanders eat them with tea, with fried fish, or split and dipped in a bean or coconut sauce. Without a clay oven, a heavy pan on the hob plus a hot grill gives the same blistering; just don't roll the dough thin like chapati, a common slip, because mofa should be about 1 cm thick and pressed out by hand. Chef's tip: wet your palms before shaping, as islanders do; the dough is soft and the water stops it sticking.








































































