Coconut jaggery cake
Bibikkan is the darkest, stickiest cake in the Sri Lankan repertoire, baked by Burgher families for Christmas and by Sinhala households for the New Year table, and nobody quite agrees whether its roots lie in Portuguese or local kitchens. Freshly grated coconut is first cooked in melted kithul jaggery, then mixed with roasted semolina, flour, eggs, cashews, raisins, chopped ginger preserve and a mix of cinnamon, cardamom, nutmeg and cloves, and baked until almost black on the outside. The crumb is moist, heavy and chewy with coconut, with a deep treacle sweetness and a warm, spiced finish, and slices are served with tea. Baking it too hot is where it often goes wrong, as the jaggery burns before the middle sets, so keep the oven moderate and cover it if the top darkens early. Chef's tip: cook the coconut in the jaggery until it looks thick and sticky before mixing; that is what gives bibikkan its fudgy texture.
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A no-churn vanilla ice cream layered with home-made peanut crunch: roasted peanuts stirred into caramelised sugar, cooled and coarsely ground. It's creamy, crunchy and salty-sweet. Makes about 3 litres; the book also gives chocolate and cashew crunch versions.
The book's basic no-churn ice cream: whipped cream and whisked frozen evaporated milk, sweetened and flavoured with vanilla, then frozen. It's smooth, light and needs no machine. Serve it with chocolate sauce and roasted chopped nuts, or try one of the variations.
A light, set lemon cheesecake: home-made cottage cheese beaten with sugar, lemon and egg yolks, set with gelatine and lightened with whisked egg whites and cream, on a ginger biscuit base. It's fresh, tangy and fluffy. Note that it uses raw eggs and gelatine, which isn't vegetarian; see the last step for an agar-agar swap. Not suitable for pregnant women, young children or the elderly because of the raw egg.
A quick carrot halwa made in the microwave: grated carrots cooked tender in ghee, milk and sugar, then enriched with fresh mawa (khoya) and plenty of almonds, cashews and pistachios. It's soft, sweet and fragrant with cardamom. Serve hot with vanilla ice cream.
Sweet bundi are tiny pearls of gram flour batter, fried until just set and tossed in warm saffron and cardamom syrup with flaked nuts. They're soft, juicy and bright orange. Serve as a festive sweet or offering, or spoon over rabdi or ice cream.
A fresh, fruity kulfi: milk thickened with cornflour and sweetened with condensed milk, then mixed with cream, cashew powder, tangerine juice and segments and frozen in moulds. It's creamy, nutty and citrusy. Serve slices straight from the freezer, garnished with cashews and tangerine.
A quick no-cook barfi made from crushed wheat biscuit cereal and tea biscuits bound with butter and sweetened condensed milk, with coconut, nuts, nutmeg and saffron. It's chewy, sweet and easy enough for children to help with. Makes 40 pieces.
A two-minute dessert for one: scoops of vanilla ice cream sprinkled with crushed amaretti biscuits and drizzled with amaretto. It's creamy, crunchy and almondy. The amaretto is alcoholic and amaretti biscuits are usually made with egg white, so check the packet; see the last step for swaps.
A five-minute layered pudding of whipped vanilla cream, crushed chocolate chip cookies and halved black and green grapes, served in a glass bowl so you can see the layers. It's creamy, crunchy and fresh. Serve chilled, sprinkled with brown sugar.
Roasted fine vermicelli cooked in milk until thick with saffron, cardamom and sugar, with chopped apple stirred in, then cooled and topped with ice cream, crunchy roasted vermicelli and nuts. It's creamy, fragrant and fun to eat. Serve it cool in individual bowls.
Ras malai is a much-loved Bengali sweet now made all over India: soft discs of fresh paneer poached in light syrup, then soaked in milk boiled down until rich and creamy and flavoured with saffron. Served chilled, scattered with almonds, pistachios and cardamom. Makes about 50 small pieces.
Pretty little plaits of saffron, almond and pistachio pastry, deep-fried until golden and dipped in a light saffron syrup. They're crisp outside, soft and nutty inside, and finished with almond and pistachio flakes and cardamom. Makes about 30; lovely on a festive sweet platter.
A modern layered barfi: a chewy base of dates, coconut, cornflakes, chocolate cereal and pistachio, a creamy top of condensed milk, cashews and almonds, and a marbled dark and white chocolate finish. It's rich, crunchy and silky all at once. Makes 35–40 rectangles; great for parties and gift boxes.
A no-cook pudding of crushed ginger biscuits soaked in apple juice, topped with fresh coconut, cashews, kiwi and grapes and finished with sweetened cream. It's fresh, creamy and gently spiced. Serve chilled; it's ready in minutes.
A quick, modern ras malai: ricotta beaten with sugar and cardamom, baked until just set, cut into squares and soaked overnight in cream scented with kewra (screwpine) essence. It's soft, creamy and delicately perfumed, without the work of making paneer. Serve chilled with almond and pistachio flakes.
A light, set milk pudding inspired by faluda: milk and evaporated milk sweetened and set with agar-agar, tinted pale pink and flavoured with cardamom. It's cool, smooth and wobbly, and fully vegetarian. Serve chilled in little bowls, topped with almonds and pistachios.
A rich no-bake dessert of ground brown bread mixed with drinking chocolate, nuts, dried fruit and brown sugar, soaked with cream and topped with a smooth white chocolate, cream cheese and sour cream layer. It's creamy, chocolatey and fruity. Make it in a glass bowl and serve chilled.
Puranpuri (puran poli) is a festive Gujarati and Maharashtrian flatbread stuffed with puran: pigeon pea lentils cooked with sugar until thick, flavoured with saffron, cardamom and fennel. It's rolled thin, cooked on a griddle and drizzled with ghee. Serve hot with kadhi and a curry of your choice.
Rasgulla are soft, spongy balls of fresh paneer cooked in boiling syrup until they swell, then served cold in light rose-scented syrup. This version hides a little sugar lump (sakar) in the centre of each ball. Makes 20; serve chilled after a meal.
Kulfi is India's dense, creamy frozen dessert, made by boiling milk down to half and enriching it with mawa (khoya, dried milk solids), condensed milk, saffron, cardamom and ground nuts. It freezes slowly into a firm, rich ice that's sliced rather than scooped. Serve it in slices, garnished with almonds and pistachios.
A royal festive sweet: rounds of crisp pastry wrapped around a rich filling of mawa (khoya), roasted coconut, almonds and pistachios, fried in ghee and dipped in a warm mix of ghee and icing sugar. Decorated with nuts and rose petals, they're crumbly, rich and fragrant with cardamom. Makes 50.
A cool layered pudding of ripe mango with cardamom and almonds, covered with a vanilla milk 'faluda' set with agar-agar. It's fruity, creamy and lightly spiced, and fully vegetarian. Make it in a glass dish so the layers show, and serve chilled with mango slices, cherries and almonds.
A quick no-bake trifle-style pudding: squares of lightly toasted bread soaked in orange juice, layered with sweetened cream, cornflakes, nuts and fresh fruit, and topped with vanilla ice cream. It's crunchy, creamy and fruity. Serve it straight away so the cornflakes stay crisp.
Magaj (magas) is a classic Gujarati sweet: coarse gram flour rubbed with milk and ghee (dhraba), roasted in ghee until golden, then mixed with sugar, almonds, pistachios and cardamom and set in a tray. It's crumbly, rich and nutty. Makes 20 pieces; a Diwali favourite that keeps well.
A rich, home-made cream liqueur of whisky, cream, condensed and evaporated milk, melted milk chocolate and a touch of coffee. Sweet, smooth and strong: for adults only. Serve chilled over crushed ice, keep it in the fridge and drink within 3 days.
A chocolatey-tasting shake made with carob powder instead of chocolate, blended with milk, yogurt, honey, fresh mint and ground brazil nuts. Creamy and lightly minty. Serve cold.
Crisp fennel juiced with sweet apples, pears and a carrot, giving a fresh juice with a gentle aniseed flavour. Serve it chilled.
A small banana baked in a foil parcel with butter, lemon, a pinch of sugar and cinnamon until soft and fragrant. A warm, easy pudding for babies of 8–18 months, mashed or left in soft pieces for older babies. Serve warm, not hot.
A sweet, creamy chowder of sweetcorn, potato, leek and red pepper simmered in milk, then blended and sieved until silky. It suits babies of 8–18 months, and older children enjoy it unsieved. Serve warm.
A soft, golden hash of butter beans, chickpeas, French beans, carrot and potato, mashed together and pan-fried until crisp on both sides. It's a filling, protein-rich meal for babies and toddlers, moistened with a little home-made vegetable stock. Remember to soak the butter beans and chickpeas the night before.
Rounds of bread spread with cream cheese, soaked in egg custard and baked gently in a water bath until just set. Soft and mild, it suits babies of 8–18 months and makes a good light lunch for toddlers too. Serve warm.
Soft tomatoes and carrot blended with cheddar, ground almonds and milk, then baked in teacups under a golden cheese topping. A gentle, savoury dish for babies of 8–18 months, with plenty of flavour. Serve it just warm, on its own or with soft toast fingers.
A gentle, salt-free vegetable stock for cooking baby food, for babies of 8–18 months. Root vegetables, ginger and a few herbs simmer slowly for two hours, giving a light, sweet stock. Use it for the purees, hash and pasta in this section, and freeze small portions in an ice-cube tray for quick meals.
A jewel-bright juice of strawberries, peaches, red grapes, kiwi, pomegranate and passion fruit. Sweet, tangy and full of fruit, it's a treat for children and grown-ups alike. Serve cold or at room temperature.
Fresh watermelon juice blended with banana, plain yogurt, a little honey and ice into a light, pink smoothie. Sweet, cooling and creamy. Serve chilled.
Fresh pineapple blended with a little ginger and a small bunch of mint for a sweet, zingy juice. Quick to make and very refreshing. Serve cold.
Soft mashed potato and mixed vegetables, shaped into little cakes and coated in wholemeal crumbs and ground almonds, then shallow-fried until golden. They're made for babies of 8–18 months and are easy for small hands to hold. Serve them cooled, with a little tomato ketchup for dipping. Leave out the almonds if anyone in the family has a nut allergy.
A thick, indulgent shake of chocolate ice cream, milk and chocolate syrup, topped with grated chocolate. It's ready in minutes and loved by children. Serve at once, while it's frosty.
Strong instant coffee, sweetened with brown sugar, chilled and then whizzed with ice until frothy. A splash of single cream on top makes it smooth and rich. Make the coffee ahead so it has time to chill.
A thick golden smoothie of ripe mango and banana blended with plain yogurt: like a mango lassi with extra fruit. Naturally sweet and filling, it makes a good breakfast on the go. Serve chilled.
A light, creamy fool of fresh mango puree, sharpened with lime, folded through whipped cream and yogurt so it's prettily rippled. Served in tall glasses, it's somewhere between a drink and a pudding. Chill for an hour or two and decorate with fresh mango slices just before serving.
Small pasta shapes cooked right in a soft sauce of aubergine, courgette, pepper, mushrooms, sweetcorn and tomato. It's blended for babies of 8–18 months; as they grow, blend it less or not at all. Serve warm.
A warming hot punch of black tea, fresh orange and grapefruit juice, star anise and brown sugar: just the thing when you feel a cold coming on. For a sweeter punch, use grape juice instead of grapefruit juice, with 1 teaspoon of lemon juice and honey to taste. Serve hot, decorated with orange peel spirals.
A deep red juice of beetroot (leaves and all), carrots and apples. Sweet, earthy and packed with goodness. Serve at room temperature or chilled.
A bright orange-green juice of carrots, dark cabbage leaves and celery with plenty of fresh coriander and parsley. Earthy and fresh: a carrot drink fit for a bunny. Serve at room temperature.
A cool, pale-green juice of cucumbers, sweet pineapple, carrots and celery with a few fresh sage leaves. Soothing and lightly sweet. Serve cold.
Flaked rice (pauva) simmered in milk until soft and creamy, then stirred with apple puree and a little ground almond. A comforting afternoon meal for babies of 8–18 months. Almond essence is strong: a tiny drop is plenty.
A thick, fragrant blend of ripe guava, mango and banana, boosted with a spoonful of guava powder from the health shop. The book calls it a modern-day vitality drink, drawing on guava's long use in traditional Indian medicine. Serve it well chilled; sieve it if you don't like the little guava seeds.
A sweet, energising juice of apples, pears and kiwi fruit with a stick of celery, all used unpeeled for extra goodness. It's naturally sweet, so it needs no sugar. Serve well chilled.
Sweet potato baked whole until soft and caramelised, then mashed with milk and a pinch of ground coriander. Naturally sweet and smooth, it's a favourite first food for babies of 4–8 months. One sweet potato makes more than a baby can eat, so freeze the rest in small portions.
Steamed carrots and cauliflower pureed and stirred into creamy baby rice for a smooth, mild meal for babies of 4–8 months. Steaming keeps the vegetables' colour and goodness. Serve lukewarm.
A vivid pink smoothie of sweet apples and cooked beetroot blended with plain yogurt. Earthy, fruity and creamy at the same time. Serve chilled, garnished with diced apple and fresh mint.
Lentils simmered with fresh tomatoes and tomato juice, then pureed and sieved into a smooth, tangy first dal for babies of 4–8 months. Use any lentils: split red lentils cook fastest. Serve warm.
A refreshing green juice of cucumber, green apple, celery, spinach and bottle gourd (dudhi), lifted with parsley, basil and mint. It's light, clean-tasting and best drunk first thing in the morning, as soon as it's made. Taste a small piece of the bottle gourd first: if it tastes bitter, don't use it.
A thick, frosty milkshake of frozen banana and vanilla ice cream with a good kick of instant coffee. Freezing the banana slices makes it extra cold and creamy without ice. Use less coffee for a milder shake.
A creamy, fizzy pineapple drink: pineapple juice, coconut milk and vanilla ice cream blended with fresh pineapple, then topped up with sparkling water. It tastes like a light, alcohol-free piña colada. Serve straight away, with straws.
A smooth, naturally sweet puree of three root vegetables: choose from carrots, potatoes, sweet potato and pumpkin. Changing the mix is an easy way to give babies of 4–8 months new flavours. Serve lukewarm.
A big jug of fresh fruit punch made from mango, passion fruit, pineapple and orange juices, with a splash of tree tomato juice. Cumin, aniseed, salt and a little ginger soda give it a lively sweet-salty-spicy taste. Serve chilled, garnished with chopped apple and mint: perfect for parties.
Finely ground oats cooked in milk and water until smooth and creamy, with a little sieved banana for natural sweetness. A warm, filling breakfast for babies of 4–8 months. Grind a batch of oats in advance and keep it in a jar.
A bright green, savoury puree of potato, mushrooms and fresh spinach cooked in home-made baby stock. Thick and smooth, it's a good way to get iron-rich greens into babies of 8–18 months. Serve warm; spare portions freeze well.
Passion fruit juice liquidised with banana and apple into a smooth, creamy drink, with a touch of salt to brighten it. Sweet, tangy and filling. Serve chilled, garnished with diced apple.
A smooth, savoury first meal of rice with carrot, new potatoes and spinach, pureed with baby milk for babies of 4–8 months. Use plain, unsalted cooked rice. Make it a little thicker as your baby gets used to texture.
A smooth, naturally sweet puree of gently stewed apple and pear, one of the first foods for babies of 4–8 months. The fruit cooks in a little unsweetened apple juice, so nothing else is needed. Serve it lukewarm; any leftover keeps covered in the fridge for a day, or freezes well in small pots.
A tropical cooler of fresh mango and black passion fruit juice, lifted with ginger juice, lemon and a splash of ginger soda. A pinch of salt balances the sweetness. Serve chilled, garnished with diced apple and fresh mint.
Warm new potatoes boiled in their skins and tossed in one of three dressings: creamy parsley sour cream, a tangy basil vinaigrette, or a fresh 'greeny' dressing of cottage cheese and herbs. Each dressing is enough for 500 g of potatoes, so make one, or make all three for a party. Serve the salad chilled on a bed of lettuce with a spoonful of single cream on top.
A crunchy, creamy coleslaw with shredded cabbage, carrots, apple, peppers and onion, made rich with eggless mayonnaise and chopped cashews. It is a favourite side with pizza, burgers and barbecues. Keep the vegetables chilled and add the mayonnaise just before serving so it stays crisp.
A colourful, hearty salad of red kidney beans, butter beans, soya beans and sweet corn on a bed of baby spinach, topped with crumbled feta and a sweet, garlicky lemon and honey dressing. It is filling enough for a light lunch and perfect for parties and picnics. Serve it cold with crusty bread, and chill the platter beforehand so the salad stays crisp.
A thick, velvety smoothie of ripe avocado blended with skimmed milk, low-fat yogurt and ice, with kelp powder and a pinch of nutmeg. Creamy and filling, almost a meal in a glass. Serve chilled.
A sweet and salty dipping sauce of soy sauce, hoisin, sesame oil, garlic, ginger and spring onions. Leaving it in the fridge for an hour or two lets the flavours blend. Serve it warm with spring rolls, dumplings and momos.
A quick, tangy barbecue sauce of tomato ketchup, onion, butter, vegetarian Worcestershire sauce, vinegar and lemon, sweetened with sugar and warmed with black pepper and chilli flakes. Keep it warm and serve it with barbecued paneer, vegetable skewers, burgers and corn.
A chunky Mediterranean salsa of chopped black olives, tomato, pepper and spring onions with chives, basil, garlic, red wine vinegar and olive oil. Serve it cold or at room temperature with corn chips or toasted bread.
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